Left the apartment at 4:45am to catch a 7:00am flight from Vancouver to Houston and then onto Cancun. Arrived at Luna Blue Hotel at Playa Del Carmen around 9:00pm their time(2 hours ahead of Vancouver). We did it Anna style. Caught the local bus where we were the only international customers and the rest were picked up from the interstate airport. Once we arrived at the terminal we walked down 5th Avenue with our suitcases to our accommodation which took about 20 minutes. This was my suggestion, not Anna's. This street is so long and very westernised for all the tourists. I could see some great clothes for Eva Rose on the way.
Our little hotel is just fine. James and Anna again has starred. This hotel recently won the trip adviser best cheap hotel in Mexico for 2013. We checked in and had a quick late dinner, although just as costly as Vancouver. We are researching where to go off the main track.
I am a little worried, that I will might not be able to spend too much more money as Nancybird has just announced that she is now selling shoes with matching handbags!!!!!!!!!
Off on our adventures to explore Playa.
What are we doing in Playa? Very little. We knew this was our time to stop and enjoy the beach life.
Weather is fantastic, with blue skies and warmth every day.
We have a deal with our little hotel, that we can go to Mamita's on the beach and get lounge chairs and umbrellas as part of the deal, so the last few days have been beach, pool and eat out.
We have been exploring some great places to eat.
Forget the shopping in Playa Del Carmen. Full of tourists and 5th Avenue is not cheap. We try to avoid walking down this main strip and like to walk the back streets.
For dinner on our 2nd night in Playa we ate at a Venezuelan cafe (no alcohol).
Ranked #2 of 609 restaurants in Playa del Carmen
Price range: $3 - $7
Cuisines: Vegan, Venezuelan, Organic
Dining options: Breakfast/Brunch, Lunch, Reservations, Takeout, Delivery, Late Night
Great fresh juices and they will bring you a sample of their selections for you to try before you choose!
We had the arepas and the Kaxapa. Yum! Yum!
Beware of all sauces served at the table in the plastic bottles. Very hot and spicy!!
Time in Playa
| Before this goes viral on Facebook, I would like to explain that I am not passed out at the bar!!!!! Oops, off to dinner will explain tomorrow. |
| View from our room |
Hello all,
we have had internet problems in the most beautiful town of Merida. I will update blog when we reach Oaxaca. Must be up at 6:00am to catch a flight. Thank heavens for our neighbours as they have eventually helped us out with internet and hopefully booking a taxi for the morning...........
Need lots of catching up.
love
Viv
Finish of Playa Del Carmen blog:
For dinner we went to El Fogon a traditional Yucatan
restaurant.
Oops, we forgot our translating book (thank you Maureen), so
we could work out that we wanted to try the pork and Kaddy also ordered chicken
They bring you a typical mexican nopales, tomato, onion salad while you wait, along with chips and salsa.
Be warned,
most are very hot (which only I enjoyed).
Anna loved that they had black beans and also this as a
paste.
Kad, well Kad just loves Mexican it is her favourite dish.
Somehow we also managed to get a beef dish as well and a special chicken broth and vegetable soup.
Yum! Best tacos, especially the pork
| Not looking forward to coming back to cold, wet, days!! |
| Early morning walk and swim. Have to do something with all that food we are eating |
Tipping is so difficult to
work out in Mexico and of course I try to give far too much. Try to learn how
to minimise to the correct amount……………not too good at succeeding.
We really got burn’t at the
last restaurant we ate at. The young boys serving us also knew exactly how to rip us off , but they did have some nice white wine and food was good. Just had
tacos.
Our last day in Playa, we
discovered where there was a french bakery, so had an omelet, baguette and jam
and a reasonable coffee.
Off on the ADO bus for 3 ½
trip to Merida.
House in Merida is magnificent and Merida is a beautiful city. The people here are very relaxed and take life as it comes. They are just lovely and helpful. What I am noticing in Mexico is that the community is so strong and there is small shops littered throughout the town where they live at the back. So, there can be tiny cafe, tiny small goods, tiny shoe store, clothing store, hardware etc etc. Even a store just to sell nappies and another with a small amount of pharmacies. Then of course there are the food carts etc. Not like Australia where we have been taken over by the two big companies. Just reminds me a bit like growing up and everyone looked out for each other. Mind you, we do crack up, as they have so much staff serving, but they all know their jobs and maybe this doesn't create a lot of wealth, but at least jobs!!
Not bad at a cost of $319 for 3 nights!! Anna and James again.......
The pool was bigger than any hotels and other accommodation we have stayed in.
Only problem, the internet was not working. We had to walk 10 minutes to a local park to get WiFi. Damn nuisance. Finally got to use the neighbours WiFi, although we had booked a tour for each day, so we were not at the house much at all, but when we were we made good use of the pool.
Other pictures below of this beautiful city central area.

First full day in Merida; we went on a walking tour which consisted of just the centro plaza area. Most of the time we could not understand our guide’s English, so we were a bit lost!!!
Could understand that there were about nine pyramids within the City Centre area and when the Spanish invaded and brought christianity, they removed all pyramids and used the limestone in many of the existing buildings. It was a walled city from colonial times until the 19th century.
Merida has the highest percentage of indigenous persons of any large city in Mexico with approximately 60% of all inhabitants being of the Maya
It is the capital of the Mexican State of Yucatán.
We booked two tours in Merida.
Day one:
afternoon/night tour:
The Uxmal Mayan ruins are some of the best on the peninsula. The name Uxmal means 'thrice-built' in Mayan, referring to the construction of its highest structure, the Pyramid of the Magician. The Maya would often build a new temple over an existing one, and in this case five stages of construction have actually been found. Uxmal was one of the largest cities of the Yucatán peninsula, and at its height was home to about 25,000 Maya.
We stayed for the night light presentation, but this was difficult as all was in Spanish!!
Returned back to Merida at 10:30pm. Night swim and off to bed.
Day two:
Day tour Chichen Itza - Mayan ruins in Yucatan Mexico
The Chichen Itza archaeological site is the most visited Mayan site on the peninsula. Eighteen structures have been restored over the years. Pyramid Kukulcan is the tallest of them and allows a view from the top of all Chichen Itza. Although, today you cannot climb as tourists died falling from these stairs. It is difficult to envisage just how colourful these buildings would have been, but you can just imagine the lifestyle. Hierarchy is in every society......

The Kukulkan Pyramid in Chichen-Itza, known as “El Castillo” (the castle), is one of the seven new wonders of the world. It’s arguably the most spectacular and most frequently visited Mayan site in Mexico. If you stand at the bottom of the steps and clap your hands you get this incredible chirping sound. Echoes off buildings are common, but not ones that distort sound like this pyramid. Whether the pyramid was constructed to deliberately make this noise, or it happened by chance, is still a matter of debate among scientists and archaeologists. Reflections from the treads of the staircase are responsible for the echo being altered. The reason that a chirp like a bird is produced is because of geometry. The time between later reflections is longer than early reflections causing the frequency of the echo to rapidly drop by about an octave. Quite incredible to listen to and they have had opera concerts in this area and no microphones have been required.
On this trip, we met a lovely girl Norma who travelled around with us on the day. Norma lives in Mexico City and she loved speaking English and teaching us some Spanish. She wrote a list of things to do in MC and also there was another family Grandmother, mother and young daughter who were from Oaxaca. They via Norma gave us a list of suggestions of sights to visit in Oaxaca
.
We certainly could have spent more time here.
Back down those awful roads hanging on tight!!
Next day, we enjoyed walking around Oaxaca Centro, revisiting the markets and finding other delightful in this beautiful town.
Stopped for lunch at the No. 1 restaurant on Trip Advisor in Oaxaca.
Next we were off through the parks to the Museum of Anthropology.
Anna stopped on the way to buy this corn on the stick, with mayonnaise and parmesan cheese. They cook it over coals which they fan to keep alight. Quite yummy!
The huge National Museum of Anthropology in Chapultepec (Grasshopper) Park in Mexico City is one of the most extensive of its kind in the world. There are numerous rooms that house archaeological artifacts (originals or replicas) from the numerous ancient cultures in Mexico, including Olmec, Mexica, Maya, Golfo, Aztec and others.
Buildings can lean over, because we need to remember that Mexico City is built on a swamp and some buildings are sinking and shifting as it is built on a waterway.
Kad bought a lovely jacket from Zara and Anna bought a pair of shoes and a tshirt.
The weather changed very quickly and as is the case around 5:00pm, it starts to rain. We all crammed into the lower deck of the bus.
We had to get off the bus at Condesa as the department store there had the suitcase I needed to buy.
In the rain, we headed off in the wrong direction. I was the only one with an umbrella and a lovely man offered cover for Kad!!! He also pointed out the right bar for us to stop and have a drink until the rain ceased.
Bought the suitcase and the girls back tracked to buy a bottle of wine. Were concerned about me being on my own as it was dark and I reassured them that I would be fine waiting outside the department store as a policeman was standing behind me with a machine gun!!
Home for a quiet night as we had a busy day booked for our last day.
The lovely woman we had met in Merida - Norma had offered to drive us around for the day.
Norma was keen for us to go and see the Teotihuacan Pyramids and so pleased we did. This is outstanding.
Just north of Mexico City are the mysterious Teotihuacán Pyramids, built beginning around 300 BC as the centerpiece of an enormous city, often compared to ancient Rome. They were inexplicably abandoned centuries before the arrival of the Aztecs, who called the ancient architectural marvel the "Birthplace of the Gods."
Neither they, nor modern archaeologists, have been able to unravel the secrets of these massive ruins, presided over by the third-largest pyramid in the world. Constructed according to precise astronomical measurements, and filled with the bodies of sacrificial victims, it was perhaps a place where bloody rituals were performed to keep the end of the world at bay. But no one really knows.
Thus, this mystic spot is one of the most enigmatic, as well as impressive, archaeological sites in North America. Its vast stone expanse of humbling temples are still covered with rich and detailed stone statues, even faded paintings.
The city reached its peak in 450 AD, when it was the center of a powerful culture whose influence extended through much of the Mesoamerican region. At its peak, the city covered over 30 km² (over 11½ square miles), and perhaps housed a population of 150,000 people, with one estimate reaching as high as 250,000.Various districts in the city housed people from across the Teotihuacano region of influence, which spread south as far as Guatemala. Notably absent from the city are fortifications and military structures
The city's broad central avenue, called "Avenue of the Dead" (a translation from its Nahuatl name Miccoatli), is flanked by impressive ceremonial architecture, including the immense Pyramid of the Sun (third largest in the World after the Great Pyramid of Cholula and the Great Pyramid of Giza). Along the Avenue of the Dead are many smaller talud-tablero platforms. The Aztecs believed they were tombs, inspiring the name of the avenue. Now scholars have established these were ceremonial platforms that were topped with temples.
Further down the Avenue of the Dead is the area known as the Citadel, containing the ruined Temple of the Feathered Serpent. This area was a large plaza surrounded by temples that formed the religious and political center of the city. The name "Citadel" was given to it by the Spanish, who believed it was a fort. Most of the common people lived in large apartment buildings spread across the city. Many of the buildings contained workshops where artisans produced pottery and other goods.
House in Merida is magnificent and Merida is a beautiful city. The people here are very relaxed and take life as it comes. They are just lovely and helpful. What I am noticing in Mexico is that the community is so strong and there is small shops littered throughout the town where they live at the back. So, there can be tiny cafe, tiny small goods, tiny shoe store, clothing store, hardware etc etc. Even a store just to sell nappies and another with a small amount of pharmacies. Then of course there are the food carts etc. Not like Australia where we have been taken over by the two big companies. Just reminds me a bit like growing up and everyone looked out for each other. Mind you, we do crack up, as they have so much staff serving, but they all know their jobs and maybe this doesn't create a lot of wealth, but at least jobs!!
| Our house in Merida |
| The pool at the house and a late night swim |
Not bad at a cost of $319 for 3 nights!! Anna and James again.......
The pool was bigger than any hotels and other accommodation we have stayed in.
Only problem, the internet was not working. We had to walk 10 minutes to a local park to get WiFi. Damn nuisance. Finally got to use the neighbours WiFi, although we had booked a tour for each day, so we were not at the house much at all, but when we were we made good use of the pool.
Other pictures below of this beautiful city central area.

First full day in Merida; we went on a walking tour which consisted of just the centro plaza area. Most of the time we could not understand our guide’s English, so we were a bit lost!!!
Could understand that there were about nine pyramids within the City Centre area and when the Spanish invaded and brought christianity, they removed all pyramids and used the limestone in many of the existing buildings. It was a walled city from colonial times until the 19th century.
Merida has the highest percentage of indigenous persons of any large city in Mexico with approximately 60% of all inhabitants being of the Maya
It is the capital of the Mexican State of Yucatán.
| This performance takes place in the main plaza every Tuesday night |
| The maypole. I can remember in primary school doing this for a school concert. It was so difficult to get right and I loved it |
| Dancing with trays, glasses and bottles balanced on their heads |
| The girls near the end of our walking tour and not understanding too much the guide is telling us. Can you tell? |
| All the local churches are always having parades or celebrations with music and then fire crackers. This is during the day on a Wednesday..........work??? |
We booked two tours in Merida.
Day one:
afternoon/night tour:
The Uxmal Mayan ruins are some of the best on the peninsula. The name Uxmal means 'thrice-built' in Mayan, referring to the construction of its highest structure, the Pyramid of the Magician. The Maya would often build a new temple over an existing one, and in this case five stages of construction have actually been found. Uxmal was one of the largest cities of the Yucatán peninsula, and at its height was home to about 25,000 Maya.
The history is partly guess work based on what they have been able to put together. Same as all societies hierarchy down to the farmers. They built the pyramids as they believed that they were closer to the heavens and the snake was there main god..
Only problem was that the park closed at 5:00pm and the girls did not get the chance to walk to the top of one of the pyrimads where you get the most incredible view!!! Not happy.
We then went to dinner with the small group down the road and came back for a night light show.
We stayed for the night light presentation, but this was difficult as all was in Spanish!!
Returned back to Merida at 10:30pm. Night swim and off to bed.
| Watching the storm roll in |
Day two:
Day tour Chichen Itza - Mayan ruins in Yucatan Mexico
The Chichen Itza archaeological site is the most visited Mayan site on the peninsula. Eighteen structures have been restored over the years. Pyramid Kukulcan is the tallest of them and allows a view from the top of all Chichen Itza. Although, today you cannot climb as tourists died falling from these stairs. It is difficult to envisage just how colourful these buildings would have been, but you can just imagine the lifestyle. Hierarchy is in every society......
| The sound |
The Kukulkan Pyramid in Chichen-Itza, known as “El Castillo” (the castle), is one of the seven new wonders of the world. It’s arguably the most spectacular and most frequently visited Mayan site in Mexico. If you stand at the bottom of the steps and clap your hands you get this incredible chirping sound. Echoes off buildings are common, but not ones that distort sound like this pyramid. Whether the pyramid was constructed to deliberately make this noise, or it happened by chance, is still a matter of debate among scientists and archaeologists. Reflections from the treads of the staircase are responsible for the echo being altered. The reason that a chirp like a bird is produced is because of geometry. The time between later reflections is longer than early reflections causing the frequency of the echo to rapidly drop by about an octave. Quite incredible to listen to and they have had opera concerts in this area and no microphones have been required.
| Thanks, Norma for taking these shots |
We went to lunch with the group and then onto a synopsis. We had not been told that this was included and very angry as we did not bring our bathers. It would have been fun to swim in this magnificent fresh water hole, although it was packed with tourists everywhere.
We went out for one dinner to La Chaya to try traditional Yuacatan cuisine in Merida food
The gastronomy of Merida is as famous as it is varied. French, indigenous, Spanish, and Lebanese influences make the dishes of Yucatan, a feast for the senses.
The use of typical ingredients from the region, such as habanero pepper, xcatic pepper, or pumpkin seed to prepare traditional dishes, is very popular and it gives the cuisine of Yucatan most of its charm.
The gastronomy of Merida is as famous as it is varied. French, indigenous, Spanish, and Lebanese influences make the dishes of Yucatan, a feast for the senses.
The use of typical ingredients from the region, such as habanero pepper, xcatic pepper, or pumpkin seed to prepare traditional dishes, is very popular and it gives the cuisine of Yucatan most of its charm.
The restaurant had two ladies in traditional dress making tortillas where the people were sitting.
Kad had Cochinita pibil Pork simmered in achiote paste and bitter orange juice and wrapped in banana leaves
Kad had Cochinita pibil Pork simmered in achiote paste and bitter orange juice and wrapped in banana leaves
Anna had the Chaya cream soup
I had the chicken pibil cooked in banana leaves which had been buried under the ground with hot coals.
Yum again.
Home by 6:00pm. Had a swim
and Anna and I had a walk. Didn’t feel like dinner tonight. Packed and in bed
by midnight as had to be up by 5:00am for taxi to airport.
Well, we had trouble trying
to organise a taxi!! Not enough Spanish when making the call and we weren’t quite sure what to do.
Being together for past 5
weeks can have its moments.!!!!
Finally went to the neighbour's house as she was an American and her partner booked the taxi for us.
Finally went to the neighbour's house as she was an American and her partner booked the taxi for us.
There is always a way!!!!!!
So, I am now sitting on our
little plane travelling from Merida to Mexico City. There we wait for 3 hours
to then fly to Oxaca on an even smaller plane!!
Looking forward to our next
adventures as we are staying in a hostel.
Ok, the girls are always telling me there is plenty of time when catching all types of transport.
So we know we have a 3 hour wait at Mexico City airport. Whilst waiting at the airport, we have a nap, do some walking and reading. We decide to get a bite to eat for lunch and I start to nag the girls that it is time to leave. Off for a toilet stop and then all of a sudden, I can hear the urgent call in Spanish for the final call for the Fogarty family to board for the flight. The girls didn't believe me, but I make them start hurrying. We get closer to the terminal and a flight attendant yells at us = Fogartys..........
Little did we know that from the terminal we had to get a bus to the plane. We race down and people are not happy as they have been waiting for us. Now the girls know why I always allow extra time, not that they will change their ways!
This is even a smaller plane, but the flight was fine.
We arrive in Oaxaca and head for our hostel. Anna has decided that we need a pool, shouldn't have booked a hostel, should only stay two nights etc etc.
Well, we stay 4 nights in Oaxaca and just love every moment. It is our favourite city and hostel life is such fun.
Mind you, I have my own room and ensuite and the girls are thrilled.
Cannot wait to update the blog and tell you all about the people and city of Oaxaca and Oh, the shopping........
Sitting here listening to the cricket on day 5. There is a chance!!
Also, managed to watch the whole footy game. Woke at 1:40am. Great team win to the Pies.
Must go, as I need to pack for Mexico City where I will need to purchase an extra suitcase.
Not looking forward to the 6 hour bus ride.
Holiday has almost finished. My only excitement about this is I get to see my Eva Rose...
Oaxaca
Our little plane arrives and into a taxi. We arrive at the hostel and Kad and I think it is not too bad at all. Anna, because she has arranged everything still thinks it is not much.
Still only wants to stay 2 nights and probably after our first night we might all have thought that as there was not much sleep.
Why? Well I was first woken by some sort of bells/siren ringing and then the whole room started to shake and move. This was around 3:45am. Didn't seem to worry too much as I must have been very tired. Then around 5:00am heard what I thought was my first gun shot!!!!
Kad knocks on the door to see if I am alright. By this time we realise that fireworks are going off and not missiles (Kad's thoughts) or gun shots. Kad had also decided that there must be a railway line right next door (this was the earthquake)............
We discovered the next morning there had been an earthquake 5.1 on the Richter scale. Oaxaca has about 100 during a calendar year. This one wasn't sideways, it was more like up and down and we were a good distance from the centre.
Breakfast is included in the shared kitchen lounge facilities:
http://azulcielohostel.mex.tl/gallery.html
Our first night, we went to a fabulous restaurant recommended by the hostel.
We stopped at a bar, where Kad got to try her first mescal.
Oaxaca is know for its cuisine:
It varies widely due to the relative geographic isolation of its peoples, and the climates in which foods are produced.Oaxaca’s gastronomy is known for its moles, chapulines, mescal, chocolate, tamales and the Oaxaca cheese to name just a few.
The chocolate is used in the moles (types of sauces) with chillies etc. There are many types of moles. The Oaxaca cheese is a soft white string cheese which is similar to mozzarella. It is sold in “ropes” which are wound onto themselves into balls. It is eaten cold or lightly melted on quesadillas and other dishes. One unique aspect to Oaxacan cuisine is the consumption of “chapulines,” which are a type of grasshopper that has been fried and seasoned with salt, lime and chili pepper.
A tamale is a traditionalMesoamerican dish made of masa (a starchy dough, usually corn-based), which is steamed or boiled in a leaf wrapper. The wrapping is discarded before eating. Tamales can be filled with meats, cheeses, fruits, vegetables, chilies or any preparation according to taste, and both the filling and the cooking liquid may be seasoned.
So we know we have a 3 hour wait at Mexico City airport. Whilst waiting at the airport, we have a nap, do some walking and reading. We decide to get a bite to eat for lunch and I start to nag the girls that it is time to leave. Off for a toilet stop and then all of a sudden, I can hear the urgent call in Spanish for the final call for the Fogarty family to board for the flight. The girls didn't believe me, but I make them start hurrying. We get closer to the terminal and a flight attendant yells at us = Fogartys..........
Little did we know that from the terminal we had to get a bus to the plane. We race down and people are not happy as they have been waiting for us. Now the girls know why I always allow extra time, not that they will change their ways!
This is even a smaller plane, but the flight was fine.
We arrive in Oaxaca and head for our hostel. Anna has decided that we need a pool, shouldn't have booked a hostel, should only stay two nights etc etc.
Well, we stay 4 nights in Oaxaca and just love every moment. It is our favourite city and hostel life is such fun.
Mind you, I have my own room and ensuite and the girls are thrilled.
Cannot wait to update the blog and tell you all about the people and city of Oaxaca and Oh, the shopping........
Sitting here listening to the cricket on day 5. There is a chance!!
Also, managed to watch the whole footy game. Woke at 1:40am. Great team win to the Pies.
Must go, as I need to pack for Mexico City where I will need to purchase an extra suitcase.
Not looking forward to the 6 hour bus ride.
Holiday has almost finished. My only excitement about this is I get to see my Eva Rose...
Our little plane arrives and into a taxi. We arrive at the hostel and Kad and I think it is not too bad at all. Anna, because she has arranged everything still thinks it is not much.
Still only wants to stay 2 nights and probably after our first night we might all have thought that as there was not much sleep.
Why? Well I was first woken by some sort of bells/siren ringing and then the whole room started to shake and move. This was around 3:45am. Didn't seem to worry too much as I must have been very tired. Then around 5:00am heard what I thought was my first gun shot!!!!
Kad knocks on the door to see if I am alright. By this time we realise that fireworks are going off and not missiles (Kad's thoughts) or gun shots. Kad had also decided that there must be a railway line right next door (this was the earthquake)............
We discovered the next morning there had been an earthquake 5.1 on the Richter scale. Oaxaca has about 100 during a calendar year. This one wasn't sideways, it was more like up and down and we were a good distance from the centre.
Breakfast is included in the shared kitchen lounge facilities:
http://azulcielohostel.mex.tl/gallery.html
Our first night, we went to a fabulous restaurant recommended by the hostel.
| Kad had turkey with one of the mole sauces |
| I had the beef with another type of mole sauce and Anna had tuna (no mole sauce) |
We stopped at a bar, where Kad got to try her first mescal.
Oaxaca is know for its cuisine:
It varies widely due to the relative geographic isolation of its peoples, and the climates in which foods are produced.Oaxaca’s gastronomy is known for its moles, chapulines, mescal, chocolate, tamales and the Oaxaca cheese to name just a few.
The chocolate is used in the moles (types of sauces) with chillies etc. There are many types of moles. The Oaxaca cheese is a soft white string cheese which is similar to mozzarella. It is sold in “ropes” which are wound onto themselves into balls. It is eaten cold or lightly melted on quesadillas and other dishes. One unique aspect to Oaxacan cuisine is the consumption of “chapulines,” which are a type of grasshopper that has been fried and seasoned with salt, lime and chili pepper.
A tamale is a traditionalMesoamerican dish made of masa (a starchy dough, usually corn-based), which is steamed or boiled in a leaf wrapper. The wrapping is discarded before eating. Tamales can be filled with meats, cheeses, fruits, vegetables, chilies or any preparation according to taste, and both the filling and the cooking liquid may be seasoned.
Day two in Oaxaca.
Wandering the enormous market places and streets of Oaxaca Centro.
The girls and I have opted to walk everywhere. We never use taxis (except when we have suitcases). This way you get to walk, meet people and see the sites.
I don't think the photos capture the ambiance or enormity of these market places. The photos below are from the smaller market. The bigger market just took all our time to try and navigate around a small proportion. I also did not want to seem to intrusive, so no close up photos of the food etc.
So you know the saying "If in Rome"..............
For dinner back at the hostel, we had chauplines, oaxaca cheese, some of their bread and tortillas from the market and
tamale with salsa. The girls only tried 1 chaupline; I reckon I ate about a dozen........
The next day we booked a tour through the hostel to:
El Tule, Hierve el Agua, Fabrica de Mezcal and Teotitlan del Valle.
First stop:
El Tule
El Árbol del Tule (Spanish for The Tree of Tule) is a tree located in the church grounds in the town center of Santa Maria el Tule. approximately 9 km east of Oaxaca. It is a cypress tree and is believed to be about 1,000 - 1,300 years old. It is the widest tree in the world
Wandering the enormous market places and streets of Oaxaca Centro.
The girls and I have opted to walk everywhere. We never use taxis (except when we have suitcases). This way you get to walk, meet people and see the sites.
I don't think the photos capture the ambiance or enormity of these market places. The photos below are from the smaller market. The bigger market just took all our time to try and navigate around a small proportion. I also did not want to seem to intrusive, so no close up photos of the food etc.
| Chauplines - we bought from here. Can you see Kad in the background?? |
| Leather goods |
| They love their flowers. There is many flower shops in Oaxaca |
| Couldn't work out what was being served. Looked like some kind of oat!! You can see a lady on right hand side drinking it. |
| Many ladies sell tortillas like this. She has just closed her eyes for a moment |
| More types of chauplines |
So you know the saying "If in Rome"..............
For dinner back at the hostel, we had chauplines, oaxaca cheese, some of their bread and tortillas from the market and
tamale with salsa. The girls only tried 1 chaupline; I reckon I ate about a dozen........
The next day we booked a tour through the hostel to:
El Tule, Hierve el Agua, Fabrica de Mezcal and Teotitlan del Valle.
First stop:
El Tule
El Árbol del Tule (Spanish for The Tree of Tule) is a tree located in the church grounds in the town center of Santa Maria el Tule. approximately 9 km east of Oaxaca. It is a cypress tree and is believed to be about 1,000 - 1,300 years old. It is the widest tree in the world
Photos don't do it justice as you just can't fit the width in.
Next it was off to Hierve el Agua:
We realised there were about 50 people on this tour, but they were using 4 different small buses. Driving up the mountain was so, so scary. It doesn't help my fear of heights, but it was also the state of the roads (winding unmade roads). No big buses could drive up there.
I had read that there had been disputes between two communities and the government as to who should be receiving the income, for entry to the site, together with the upkeep of the roads.
The communities are very poor in this area and Jacinta, I think it would look exactly like you saw it 35 years ago, with maybe a few more cars in the area.
Well it was certainly worth it,
Hierve el Agua (Spanish for "the water boils") is 70 km east of Oaxaca City and is a set of natural rock formations that look like waterfalls. The site consists of two rock shelves or cliffs which rise between fifty and ninety metres from the valley below, from which extend nearly white rock formations which look like waterfalls. These formations are created by fresh water springs, whose water is over-saturated with calcium carbonate and other minerals. As the water scurries over the cliffs, the excess minerals are deposited, much in the same manner that stalactites
form in caves. One has pools you can swim in near the edge of the cliff.
I had read that there had been disputes between two communities and the government as to who should be receiving the income, for entry to the site, together with the upkeep of the roads.
The communities are very poor in this area and Jacinta, I think it would look exactly like you saw it 35 years ago, with maybe a few more cars in the area.
Well it was certainly worth it,
Hierve el Agua (Spanish for "the water boils") is 70 km east of Oaxaca City and is a set of natural rock formations that look like waterfalls. The site consists of two rock shelves or cliffs which rise between fifty and ninety metres from the valley below, from which extend nearly white rock formations which look like waterfalls. These formations are created by fresh water springs, whose water is over-saturated with calcium carbonate and other minerals. As the water scurries over the cliffs, the excess minerals are deposited, much in the same manner that stalactites
form in caves. One has pools you can swim in near the edge of the cliff.
We loved it!!!!
| As I said this is not a waterfall, but a rock formation |
| Italian guy wanting to make his girlfriend even a little more jealous |
Back down those awful roads hanging on tight!!
Next stop Mitla:
Mitla is one of many well-preserved archaeological sites of Oaxaca. This valley was settled by the Zapotecs who over the centuries developed a hierarchical society.The Mixtecs took control of the area, although the area remained populated by the Zaptoec.
Mitla is one of the areas which represents Mesoamerican attitudes towards death, as the most consequential part of life after birth. It was built as a gateway between the world of the living and the world of the dead.
Mitla was still occupied and functioning as the main religious center when the Spanish arrived in the 1520s. Most of the temples were destroyed and again the stones used to build the churches.
Mitla is one of many well-preserved archaeological sites of Oaxaca. This valley was settled by the Zapotecs who over the centuries developed a hierarchical society.The Mixtecs took control of the area, although the area remained populated by the Zaptoec.
Mitla is one of the areas which represents Mesoamerican attitudes towards death, as the most consequential part of life after birth. It was built as a gateway between the world of the living and the world of the dead.
Mitla was still occupied and functioning as the main religious center when the Spanish arrived in the 1520s. Most of the temples were destroyed and again the stones used to build the churches.
| Church |
| temple |
| Top of the church looking from the ruins |
| The church |
Headed off for lunch which was an incredible smorgasbord. As I said Oaxaca is known for its cuisine especially the 7 moles of Oaxaca. Let me explain. These are 7 types of sauces with many, many ingredients that have been ground down and stewed for many hours.Ingredients can include, chilli, chocolate, onion, garlic, bread, corn, bananas, many different types of spices, pumpkin, tomatoes, etc......They then simmer the meat for many hours in one of these sauces in big clay pots.
Where we had lunch, I reckon they had all 7 moles. You could also get soups and salads and they were cooking tortillas and meat outside.
Yum. Even dessert was yummy.
Kad's favourite was next. How they make Mezcal and tastings:
Oaxaca people love to keep tradition and this certainly continues when making mezcal.
Mezcal is made from the heart of the maguey plant, called the "piña", and is still made the traditional way by small producers throughout Oaxaca. The maguey grows in many parts of Mexico,
The plant flowers after about 8 years. Once the flower opens, they know it is ready to cut the 'pineapple'
The piñas are then cooked for about three days, often in pit ovens, which are earthen mounds over pits of hot rocks. This underground roasting gives mezcal its intense and distinctive smoky flavor.
These piñas are then crushed and mashed still the traditional way by a stone wheel turned by a horseand then left to ferment in large vats or barrels with water added.
The mash (which we tasted and at this stage is quite sweet) is allowed to ferment, the resulting liquid collected and distilled in either clay or copper pots which will further modify the flavor of the final product. The distilled product is then bottled unsold. Unaged mezcal is referred to as "joven", or young. Some of the distilled product is left to age in barrels for between one month and four years, but some can be aged for as long as twelve years. Mezcal can reach an alcohol content of 55% - 80%.Like tequila, mezcal is distilled twice. The first distillation is known as "punta", and comes out at around 75 degrees (37,5% alcohol by volume). The liquid must then be distilled a second time to raise the alcohol percentage.
Not all bottles of mezcal contain a “worm” (actually the larvae of the plant, but if added, it is added during the bottling process. There are conflicting stories as to why such would be added. Some state that it is a marketing ploy.Others state that it is there to prove that the mezcal is fit to drink,and still others state that the larva is there to impart flavor.
Now, whilst we were being shown the process, Anna became quite unwell. She was off to the toilet vomiting, but returned for taste testing!!!!!!
Kad also has had a bug, with a very upset tummy over the past week; but both girls have just kept on going!!!
The most traditional Oaxaca way to drink mezcal is as a shot, with a side plate of fried larvae ground with chili peppers and salt and cut limes. One takes a pinch of the larvae mixture and places it on the tongue, then immediately begins to drink the shot, but slowly.
Where we had lunch, I reckon they had all 7 moles. You could also get soups and salads and they were cooking tortillas and meat outside.
Yum. Even dessert was yummy.
| Not quite sure what type of sausage this is!!!! |
Oaxaca people love to keep tradition and this certainly continues when making mezcal.
Mezcal is made from the heart of the maguey plant, called the "piña", and is still made the traditional way by small producers throughout Oaxaca. The maguey grows in many parts of Mexico,
The plant flowers after about 8 years. Once the flower opens, they know it is ready to cut the 'pineapple'
| Can weigh up to 40 kgs |
The piñas are then cooked for about three days, often in pit ovens, which are earthen mounds over pits of hot rocks. This underground roasting gives mezcal its intense and distinctive smoky flavor.
These piñas are then crushed and mashed still the traditional way by a stone wheel turned by a horseand then left to ferment in large vats or barrels with water added.
The mash (which we tasted and at this stage is quite sweet) is allowed to ferment, the resulting liquid collected and distilled in either clay or copper pots which will further modify the flavor of the final product. The distilled product is then bottled unsold. Unaged mezcal is referred to as "joven", or young. Some of the distilled product is left to age in barrels for between one month and four years, but some can be aged for as long as twelve years. Mezcal can reach an alcohol content of 55% - 80%.Like tequila, mezcal is distilled twice. The first distillation is known as "punta", and comes out at around 75 degrees (37,5% alcohol by volume). The liquid must then be distilled a second time to raise the alcohol percentage.
Not all bottles of mezcal contain a “worm” (actually the larvae of the plant, but if added, it is added during the bottling process. There are conflicting stories as to why such would be added. Some state that it is a marketing ploy.Others state that it is there to prove that the mezcal is fit to drink,and still others state that the larva is there to impart flavor.
Now, whilst we were being shown the process, Anna became quite unwell. She was off to the toilet vomiting, but returned for taste testing!!!!!!
Kad also has had a bug, with a very upset tummy over the past week; but both girls have just kept on going!!!
| Cheers; Salud; A la votre. Look at Kad, just loving it. |
The most traditional Oaxaca way to drink mezcal is as a shot, with a side plate of fried larvae ground with chili peppers and salt and cut limes. One takes a pinch of the larvae mixture and places it on the tongue, then immediately begins to drink the shot, but slowly.
The girls purchased, but none for me!
Our last stop was into the hills where the weaving of rugs etc take place. Still traditional, where they spin the wool; make their own colours: eg parasites on cactus, which when squashed produces the red colouring. Mix this with lemon juice for orange and ashes for purple.
Marigold plants produce yellow etc. One to watch a demonstration and Kad and I purchased a rug each. I am thrilled to have a traditional mexican rug. Always remember Jacinta's rug she purchased 35 years ago and still on her wall and loving it.
That night the girls went salsa dancing with one of the guys from the hostel whilst I went to bed.
Go up at 1:40am to watch the Essendon vs Collingwood and when the girls arrived home at 3:15am wiggling their hips, I was excited to tell them the Pies were going to win.
| This is like the rug I bought. Lots of colours |
Go up at 1:40am to watch the Essendon vs Collingwood and when the girls arrived home at 3:15am wiggling their hips, I was excited to tell them the Pies were going to win.
| Hamburger in Oaxaca on the way home!!!! |
Stopped for lunch at the No. 1 restaurant on Trip Advisor in Oaxaca.
Up early next morning and taxi to the ADO bus for our 6 1/2 hour bus ride to Mexico City. Our last stop on our 6 week tour.
Another wonderful accommodation organised by Anna and James. We are staying in Colonial Roma with garden square across the road. Arrive around 6:00pm and owner has supplied maps and local places to eat. Anna not hungry, so Kad and I opt for gourmet hamburgers around the corner. Early night.
Next day we decide to walk to:
Chapultepec Castle which is located on top of Chapultepec Hill. The name Chapultepec stems from the Náhuatl word chapoltepēc which means "at the grasshopper's hill". It is located in the middle of Chapultepec Park in Mexico Cityat a height of 2,325 meters (7,628 ft) above sea level. The site of the hill was a sacred place for Aztecs, and the buildings atop it have served several purposes during its history, including that of Military Academy, Imperial residence, Presidential home,observatory, and presently, the Museo Nacional de Historia.
Another wonderful accommodation organised by Anna and James. We are staying in Colonial Roma with garden square across the road. Arrive around 6:00pm and owner has supplied maps and local places to eat. Anna not hungry, so Kad and I opt for gourmet hamburgers around the corner. Early night.
Next day we decide to walk to:
Chapultepec Castle which is located on top of Chapultepec Hill. The name Chapultepec stems from the Náhuatl word chapoltepēc which means "at the grasshopper's hill". It is located in the middle of Chapultepec Park in Mexico Cityat a height of 2,325 meters (7,628 ft) above sea level. The site of the hill was a sacred place for Aztecs, and the buildings atop it have served several purposes during its history, including that of Military Academy, Imperial residence, Presidential home,observatory, and presently, the Museo Nacional de Historia.
It is an incredible castle and museum, but everything was written in spanish, so very hard to follow any of the history of this castle.
Click on link to show map of where we walked
https://www.google.com/maps/preview?authuser=0#!data=!4m20!3m19!1m6!1sCastillo+de+Chapultepec%2C+Primera+Seccion+S%2FN%2C+Bosque+de+Chapultepec%2C+Miguel+Hidalgo%2C+11580+Mexico+City%2C+Federal+District%2C+Mexico!2s0x85d1fecd47ed8f23%3A0xa6e0008524818b32!3m2!3d19.42044!4d-99.181935!4sChapultepec+Castle%2C+Primera+Seccion+S%2FN%2C+Bosque+de+Chapultepec%2C+Miguel+Hidalgo%2C+11580+Mexico+City%2C+Federal+District%2C+Mexico!1m1!1s10+Plaza+Luis+Cabrera%2C+Colonia+Roma+Mexico+City%2C+Distrito+!2e2!3m8!1m3!1d807426!2d-99.8107907!3d19.9809823!3m2!1i1280!2i646!4f13.1&fid=0
Click on link to show map of where we walked
https://www.google.com/maps/preview?authuser=0#!data=!4m20!3m19!1m6!1sCastillo+de+Chapultepec%2C+Primera+Seccion+S%2FN%2C+Bosque+de+Chapultepec%2C+Miguel+Hidalgo%2C+11580+Mexico+City%2C+Federal+District%2C+Mexico!2s0x85d1fecd47ed8f23%3A0xa6e0008524818b32!3m2!3d19.42044!4d-99.181935!4sChapultepec+Castle%2C+Primera+Seccion+S%2FN%2C+Bosque+de+Chapultepec%2C+Miguel+Hidalgo%2C+11580+Mexico+City%2C+Federal+District%2C+Mexico!1m1!1s10+Plaza+Luis+Cabrera%2C+Colonia+Roma+Mexico+City%2C+Distrito+!2e2!3m8!1m3!1d807426!2d-99.8107907!3d19.9809823!3m2!1i1280!2i646!4f13.1&fid=0
Anna stopped on the way to buy this corn on the stick, with mayonnaise and parmesan cheese. They cook it over coals which they fan to keep alight. Quite yummy!
The huge National Museum of Anthropology in Chapultepec (Grasshopper) Park in Mexico City is one of the most extensive of its kind in the world. There are numerous rooms that house archaeological artifacts (originals or replicas) from the numerous ancient cultures in Mexico, including Olmec, Mexica, Maya, Golfo, Aztec and others.
We hired a guide who spoke fantastic English to show us the two areas we were keen to see:
The Aztecs - from the Mexican City area and the Maya - from the Playa, Merida area.
A Beautifully designed building in 1963 by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano and Rafael Mijares, it has an impressive architecture with exhibition halls surrounding a patio with a huge pond and a vast square concrete umbrella supported by a single slender pillar (known as "el paraguas", Spanishfor "the umbrella") around which splashes an artificial cascade. The halls are ringed by gardens, many of which contain outdoor exhibits. The museum has 23 rooms for exhibits and covers an area of 79,700 square meters (almost 8hectares) or 857,890 square feet (almost 20 acres).
You know me, I love my sports, but I would hope that I would not have liked the outcome for the winner of the mayan sport.
The Mayans were great sportsmen and build huge ballcourts to play their games. The Great Ballcourt of Chichén Itzá is 545 feet long and 225 feet wide overall. It has no vault, no discontinuity between the walls and is totally open to the sky.
Legends say that the the winning captain would present his head to the losing capitan, who then decapitates him. While this may seem a strange reward, the Mayans believed this to be the ultimate honor.The winning captian getting a direct ticket to heaven instead of going through the 13 steps that the Mayan's believed they had to go through in order to reach heaven..
The sacred Ball Court was the site of a brutal Mayan sport. The field, approximately the size of a football field, is bordered by two imposing walls 26 feet tall. Seven combatants on each team tried to get a small rubber ball to go through a small stone hoop 23 feet above the ground supposedly without using their hands or feet to touch the ball. Virtually all descriptions of the native Mexican ballgames stress that hands were not allowed to touch the ball. Yet two 8th century Maya sculptures and several Peten Maya vases show players with their hands on the ball.It is believed that the losers of this game were often sacraficed to the Gods. These Mayan games predate the olympics by about 500 years!
The games played in the ballcourt were sometimes played to the death.
Serious injury could be inflicted on a player with the hard ball which was mainly struckwith the elbows, knees or hips, but was not to be hit with the hands, feet or calves. Playerswere known to throw themselves on the ground to hit the ball properly. The full impact of the ball was in this case absorbed by the body. Participants wore equipment for protection, including chin pieces and half masks for cheeks, hard leather gloves, quilted cotton elbowpads, knee pads, belts or yokes made of leather or basketry for the waist a protruding palmate stone, and a leather apron.
A Beautifully designed building in 1963 by Pedro Ramírez Vázquez, Jorge Campuzano and Rafael Mijares, it has an impressive architecture with exhibition halls surrounding a patio with a huge pond and a vast square concrete umbrella supported by a single slender pillar (known as "el paraguas", Spanishfor "the umbrella") around which splashes an artificial cascade. The halls are ringed by gardens, many of which contain outdoor exhibits. The museum has 23 rooms for exhibits and covers an area of 79,700 square meters (almost 8hectares) or 857,890 square feet (almost 20 acres).
| The ball used in the sport |
The Mayans were great sportsmen and build huge ballcourts to play their games. The Great Ballcourt of Chichén Itzá is 545 feet long and 225 feet wide overall. It has no vault, no discontinuity between the walls and is totally open to the sky.
Legends say that the the winning captain would present his head to the losing capitan, who then decapitates him. While this may seem a strange reward, the Mayans believed this to be the ultimate honor.The winning captian getting a direct ticket to heaven instead of going through the 13 steps that the Mayan's believed they had to go through in order to reach heaven..
The sacred Ball Court was the site of a brutal Mayan sport. The field, approximately the size of a football field, is bordered by two imposing walls 26 feet tall. Seven combatants on each team tried to get a small rubber ball to go through a small stone hoop 23 feet above the ground supposedly without using their hands or feet to touch the ball. Virtually all descriptions of the native Mexican ballgames stress that hands were not allowed to touch the ball. Yet two 8th century Maya sculptures and several Peten Maya vases show players with their hands on the ball.It is believed that the losers of this game were often sacraficed to the Gods. These Mayan games predate the olympics by about 500 years!
The games played in the ballcourt were sometimes played to the death.
Serious injury could be inflicted on a player with the hard ball which was mainly struckwith the elbows, knees or hips, but was not to be hit with the hands, feet or calves. Playerswere known to throw themselves on the ground to hit the ball properly. The full impact of the ball was in this case absorbed by the body. Participants wore equipment for protection, including chin pieces and half masks for cheeks, hard leather gloves, quilted cotton elbowpads, knee pads, belts or yokes made of leather or basketry for the waist a protruding palmate stone, and a leather apron.
What was incredible was the Mayan and Aztec calendars.
This museum has the Aztec calendar that
Not only their incredible calendar, but they also had a maths system as well.
The Aztec calendar is carved from a single piece of porphyry, the Sun Stone weighs more than 20 tons. The most famous of Aztec monuments, the Sun Stone is commonly known as the Calendar Stone. All of its symbols relate to the Sun and highlight the Sun's role in Aztec belief and religion. A treasured archaeology piece at the museum. Picture doesn't show how big it is.
So, in the middle of a very busy intersection in Mexico City; Anna went one way and I went another, with poor old Kad holding the map and having to make a decision which one to follow............ She knew it had to be her mum who has no sense of direction.
Well finally all together and headed back to our accommodation. We were to investigate a bit of Condesa, but exhausted and full of anguish we headed home.
That night we went to meet MOS. Brother of a friend of Fog's who has been living and teaching in Mexico City since the start of the year.
We met him in Condesa and sat and had a few too many drinks. You really did feel like you were sitting in Fitzroy on a balmy night. Amazing! I had a wonderful risotto to boot!!
Made our way home late (walking) with Kad's directions. Anna and I weren't quite up to directing us anywhere.
Next day was hop on hop off bus. We had planned to take two routes, but when you work to Mexican times, you only manage to do one. Our first stop and only stop for the day was Centro Historico:
This is where it all began. Once the heart of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlán, then the capital of the colony of Nueva España, it is full of churches, crumbling mansions and lively markets.
This museum has the Aztec calendar that
Not only their incredible calendar, but they also had a maths system as well.
The Aztec calendar is carved from a single piece of porphyry, the Sun Stone weighs more than 20 tons. The most famous of Aztec monuments, the Sun Stone is commonly known as the Calendar Stone. All of its symbols relate to the Sun and highlight the Sun's role in Aztec belief and religion. A treasured archaeology piece at the museum. Picture doesn't show how big it is.
| All made from Jade found in a burial pyramid. Stunning!! |
So, in the middle of a very busy intersection in Mexico City; Anna went one way and I went another, with poor old Kad holding the map and having to make a decision which one to follow............ She knew it had to be her mum who has no sense of direction.
Well finally all together and headed back to our accommodation. We were to investigate a bit of Condesa, but exhausted and full of anguish we headed home.
That night we went to meet MOS. Brother of a friend of Fog's who has been living and teaching in Mexico City since the start of the year.
We met him in Condesa and sat and had a few too many drinks. You really did feel like you were sitting in Fitzroy on a balmy night. Amazing! I had a wonderful risotto to boot!!
Made our way home late (walking) with Kad's directions. Anna and I weren't quite up to directing us anywhere.
Next day was hop on hop off bus. We had planned to take two routes, but when you work to Mexican times, you only manage to do one. Our first stop and only stop for the day was Centro Historico:
This is where it all began. Once the heart of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlán, then the capital of the colony of Nueva España, it is full of churches, crumbling mansions and lively markets.
Lively markets, the place is absolutely packed. People everywhere.
I wished I could work out how to put videos up, as I videoed, to show and feel the crowds and also the noise level.
The photo below shows some of the illegal stall holders. They had their goods displayed laying on plastic bags. there was so many of them shouting as we walked past. We stopped at the next street corner to read the map to see if we continued as we were looking for the palace and post office.
All of a sudden all the plastic bags were slung over the shoulder and they were all running down the side street. Next, a group of police walked up the street from the other direction.
When we walked back, there was still one police person standing there and the stall holders were starting to unpack again. I think this is game playing every day and if you get caught, they don't confiscate the stolen goods, just have to pay a fee........... so don't get caught.
| Witch doctors |
| lunch from a street seller |
| Selling their wares ad shouting out their goods |
| Packed up and racing down the side street. Their goods are laid on plastic bags and at the ready to just fold up and throw over the shoulder to take off |
| The area shows just how busy it gets in Mexico City |
| See the lean on the building on the right |
| Witch doctors |
| Looking from the old church down the street full of sellers |
| Just loved this tiled building |
| Palace |
| How's this for a post office |
| Post office is still being used with all the gold trimmings. It is enormous |
| On the bus going past the post office and palace |
The weather changed very quickly and as is the case around 5:00pm, it starts to rain. We all crammed into the lower deck of the bus.
We had to get off the bus at Condesa as the department store there had the suitcase I needed to buy.
In the rain, we headed off in the wrong direction. I was the only one with an umbrella and a lovely man offered cover for Kad!!! He also pointed out the right bar for us to stop and have a drink until the rain ceased.
Bought the suitcase and the girls back tracked to buy a bottle of wine. Were concerned about me being on my own as it was dark and I reassured them that I would be fine waiting outside the department store as a policeman was standing behind me with a machine gun!!
Home for a quiet night as we had a busy day booked for our last day.
The lovely woman we had met in Merida - Norma had offered to drive us around for the day.
Norma was keen for us to go and see the Teotihuacan Pyramids and so pleased we did. This is outstanding.
Just north of Mexico City are the mysterious Teotihuacán Pyramids, built beginning around 300 BC as the centerpiece of an enormous city, often compared to ancient Rome. They were inexplicably abandoned centuries before the arrival of the Aztecs, who called the ancient architectural marvel the "Birthplace of the Gods."
Neither they, nor modern archaeologists, have been able to unravel the secrets of these massive ruins, presided over by the third-largest pyramid in the world. Constructed according to precise astronomical measurements, and filled with the bodies of sacrificial victims, it was perhaps a place where bloody rituals were performed to keep the end of the world at bay. But no one really knows.
Thus, this mystic spot is one of the most enigmatic, as well as impressive, archaeological sites in North America. Its vast stone expanse of humbling temples are still covered with rich and detailed stone statues, even faded paintings.
The city reached its peak in 450 AD, when it was the center of a powerful culture whose influence extended through much of the Mesoamerican region. At its peak, the city covered over 30 km² (over 11½ square miles), and perhaps housed a population of 150,000 people, with one estimate reaching as high as 250,000.Various districts in the city housed people from across the Teotihuacano region of influence, which spread south as far as Guatemala. Notably absent from the city are fortifications and military structures
The city's broad central avenue, called "Avenue of the Dead" (a translation from its Nahuatl name Miccoatli), is flanked by impressive ceremonial architecture, including the immense Pyramid of the Sun (third largest in the World after the Great Pyramid of Cholula and the Great Pyramid of Giza). Along the Avenue of the Dead are many smaller talud-tablero platforms. The Aztecs believed they were tombs, inspiring the name of the avenue. Now scholars have established these were ceremonial platforms that were topped with temples.
Further down the Avenue of the Dead is the area known as the Citadel, containing the ruined Temple of the Feathered Serpent. This area was a large plaza surrounded by temples that formed the religious and political center of the city. The name "Citadel" was given to it by the Spanish, who believed it was a fort. Most of the common people lived in large apartment buildings spread across the city. Many of the buildings contained workshops where artisans produced pottery and other goods.
In the centre of the coutyard near the Pyramid of the moon, was a large altar where human sacrifice took place.
Out of all the ruins I have seen, this is certainly amazing and very vast.
Norma then drove us to the other side of Mexico City
This took around 2 1/2 hours I think, so just shows how vast and also how busy the city is.
We were keen to visit Frida Kahlo's house which has recently been done up.
Norma has a friend that lives near by, so we managed to get a park in a side street in Coyoacan. What a beautiful town this is, with fairly expensive mexican housing and the most beautiful city centre square.
Frida Kahlo was born on July 6, 1907, in the house of her parents, known as La Casa Azul (The Blue House), in Coyoacán. At the time, Coyoacán was a small town on the outskirts of Mexico City.
Freda had a difficult life; she had polio at the age of six and in a horrific bus accident when she was around 18 years of age. This caused her to be bedridden for a long time. She had been studying medicine, but had to quit and this is how she took up her painting.
Drawn from personal experiences, including her marriage, her miscarriages, and her numerous operations, Kahlo's works are often characterised by their suggestions of pain.
Of her 143 paintings, 55 are self-portraits which often incorporate symbolic portrayals of physical and psychological wounds. She insisted, "I never painted dreams. I painted my own reality.
We were unable to take photos inside the house, so below is from the outside only.
So, we stopped to have this traditional drink and it didn't sit too well with Anna.
We walked around a great market and their beautiful town square, but it was obvious Anna wasn't too good.
On the way back to our apartment, Anna got very ill and the plastic bag certainly came in handy.
Poor Norma was so upset and worried about Anna. We had such a wonderful, lovely day and here is Anna almost passed out in the back seat and then vomiting and vomiting!!!
Norma dropped us of just near our apartment and we had to say a quick farewell as traffic was crazy.
Thank you Norma for a wonderful day showing us your city. We hope to see you in Aus one day!!
Out of all the ruins I have seen, this is certainly amazing and very vast.
| Walking down the very long Avenue of the Dead |
| Still walking |
| Still walking |
| Pyramid of the Sun was on the right as we headed down to the Pyramid of the Moon and living quarters |
| Pyramid of the Moon smaller of the two Pyramids |
| This is a recent find. The colour and plaster is original. Just amazing, and gives you a better insight to what these buildings looked like. How did they do it????? |
| Wonderful existing colours |
| Drawing of a cougar in original state and has just been discovered |
| The girls coming down |
| The girls reach the top of the Pyramid of the Moon |
| The girls climbing the Pyramid of the Sun - The Pyramids were far too steep for me to climb. I know my limitations |
| The girls have reached the top |
| There's me down below using my umbrella for shade |
| Go Norma |
Norma then drove us to the other side of Mexico City
This took around 2 1/2 hours I think, so just shows how vast and also how busy the city is.
We were keen to visit Frida Kahlo's house which has recently been done up.
Norma has a friend that lives near by, so we managed to get a park in a side street in Coyoacan. What a beautiful town this is, with fairly expensive mexican housing and the most beautiful city centre square.
Frida Kahlo was born on July 6, 1907, in the house of her parents, known as La Casa Azul (The Blue House), in Coyoacán. At the time, Coyoacán was a small town on the outskirts of Mexico City.
| We stopped at Norma's favourite restaurant for lunch. |
| Yum, Norma thought a bit spicy, but I loved it |
Freda had a difficult life; she had polio at the age of six and in a horrific bus accident when she was around 18 years of age. This caused her to be bedridden for a long time. She had been studying medicine, but had to quit and this is how she took up her painting.
Drawn from personal experiences, including her marriage, her miscarriages, and her numerous operations, Kahlo's works are often characterised by their suggestions of pain.
Of her 143 paintings, 55 are self-portraits which often incorporate symbolic portrayals of physical and psychological wounds. She insisted, "I never painted dreams. I painted my own reality.
We were unable to take photos inside the house, so below is from the outside only.
| Freda's house has been beautifully restored. Just love this blue colour |
| I bought a traditional mexican crafted top at the shop. Further on you will know why I was very happy I did and I would guess Norma would have been thrilled as well!!! |
So, we stopped to have this traditional drink and it didn't sit too well with Anna.
We walked around a great market and their beautiful town square, but it was obvious Anna wasn't too good.
On the way back to our apartment, Anna got very ill and the plastic bag certainly came in handy.
Poor Norma was so upset and worried about Anna. We had such a wonderful, lovely day and here is Anna almost passed out in the back seat and then vomiting and vomiting!!!
Norma dropped us of just near our apartment and we had to say a quick farewell as traffic was crazy.
Thank you Norma for a wonderful day showing us your city. We hope to see you in Aus one day!!
We went back to the apartment where Anna went to bed and Kad and I sat up with MOSS who had come back to visit.
At midnight, I left Kad and MOSS to the Mezcal and red wine and went to bed.
I think MOSS went home around 6:00am. How Kad travelled back to Australia that day I do not know.
We had run out of cash, and knew we needed cash for the taxi to the airport.
Anna and I left Kaddy sleeping, whilst we went to find an ATM. First one didn't work and Anna and I got a bit panicky as how were we going to pay. We walked and we walked to locate another.
Finally found another and this time bingo, we had cash!!!
At midnight, I left Kad and MOSS to the Mezcal and red wine and went to bed.
I think MOSS went home around 6:00am. How Kad travelled back to Australia that day I do not know.
We had run out of cash, and knew we needed cash for the taxi to the airport.
Anna and I left Kaddy sleeping, whilst we went to find an ATM. First one didn't work and Anna and I got a bit panicky as how were we going to pay. We walked and we walked to locate another.
Finally found another and this time bingo, we had cash!!!
Into a taxi (which had been organised by the owner of the apartment) and off to the airport for our final trip home.
Just fitted in with all our suitcases.
Kad and I were flying Air Mexico to LA and Anna was heading back to Vancouver via Houston.
We farewelled Anna and she headed off.
What you have to make sure is that you had a slip of paper that you filled in at customs on the way into Mexico and you had to have it when you leave as well!!
Kad and I were OK as we had kept this (I'm just a hoarder and didn't even know I had to keep it), but we discovered that Anna had thrown hers out. You had to pay an amount if you did not have the form.
Now, Anna wasn't in the best state of mind as it was, so this just threw her completely and they had to take her to immigration because she couldn't stop crying. She was still crying so much on the plane, that a flight attendant made a rose out of a napkin and gave it to her, together with his phone number.
She was pretty sure that everyone on that flight had thought she had broken off with her boyfriend!!
Kad and I arrived at LA and had 6 1/2 hours till our flight to Melbourne.
We decided to do some bar hopping, but became aware that there is nothing to do at LA airport, as they are renovating and there is two small bars/food venues for the whole of the international airport!!!
So it was a very slow 6 1/2 hours. Still not quite sure how Kad was holding up. She is amazing.
We flew back on Qantas 380 again, but were in the back seat. I was in the middle and Kad had the window seat.
Flight long and uneventful until we reached Melbourne. We had breakfast just before we landed and Kad and I had a champagne to toast our survival of travelling together and also to toast a wonderful holiday!!!
Did you know if you have a fairly new passport they have a chip and you can just scan with a computer and then show on exit. This would have been fine, if I had my passport. Ooops, where was my passport??? I had travelled for 6 weeks and all of a sudden no passport. It was a mad dash back to the plane and made it just in time as the flight attendants were still there. Back on the plane and there under the seat was my nancybird leather document holder!!!
Then trying to get off the plane couldn't find the exit, ended up in the first class section.
Below is photos from our snorkelling the bat caves etc
The flight attendants laughing saying that I was wanting to fly first class one way or another!!!
Also, as I was running back through the airport to the plane Simon from my work and his wife Louisa were just getting off their flight from Asia after 4 weeks. I was in such a state that I just ran past them shouting "I have lost my passport". Great way to finish my holiday. Sorry Kad!!!
Anthony was at the airport to pick us up and it was back to their place to see my beautiful Eva Rose.
She had changed and grown up so much in the past 6 weeks. How lovely to see them all.
I would like to take this time to thank my two girls for travelling with their mum and putting up with me.
I had such a fantastic holiday and loved travelling with the girls. It really was a trip of a life time.
I always thought this would be my last trip, but have that travel bug and hope I will be able to afford another trip somewhere and sometime, but probably on my own!!!!
I had such a fantastic holiday and loved travelling with the girls. It really was a trip of a life time.
I always thought this would be my last trip, but have that travel bug and hope I will be able to afford another trip somewhere and sometime, but probably on my own!!!!
Below is photos from our snorkelling the bat caves etc
| See the little bats on the cave ceiling |
| I think these photos show how much the girls look alike. I could only tell my where the wristbands etc!!! |
Absolutely loved Mexico and can recommend to take a holiday. Would love to return and explore more.......Maybe one day........
Thank you Kad and Anna for travelling with your mum and putting up with me. I really appreciated having the freedom of travelling without a tour and you company!!
Thank you Kad and Anna for travelling with your mum and putting up with me. I really appreciated having the freedom of travelling without a tour and you company!!


Waiting for photos...
ReplyDeleteMight check out the nancybird website in the meantime.
Waiting for photos....
ReplyDeleteAre you spending too much time on the computer seeking updates on Collingwood? Another game missed tomorrow!
Hi Vivie,
ReplyDeleteYou certainly are having a different Mexican holiday to mine 35 years ago! What a lovely opportunity for the three of you to relax and enjoy a well earned rest after your travels.
I gather you know the Pies unfortunately overcame a very hungry Gold Coast! Unfortunatley they are looking a bit slow at the pointy end of the season.
I have a cold so have stayed in Q'Ciff for the weekend and Den and I we went to the Bellarine Film Festival at Town Hall- which was great.
Bob Fuller has been in hospital for 3 weeks and unfortunately has developed a duodenal ulcer which has been bleeding. He was operated on last night and is recovering and gearing up for another round of chemo. Despite all of this he is very cheerful and gracious!
Love to you and girls.
Jacinta xxxx
Jealous as hell - the water and warm weather look glorious. You all look so relaxed, as the song goes "How we gonna keep them down on the Farm ... after they've seen Pari" Home will be a shock indeed. Enjoy, Enjoy
ReplyDeleteK
So, we were at the airport waiting for our flight this morning. Logged into internet and facebook was going crazy as a worst decision ever!!!!!!!!
ReplyDeleteJust checked then, and Aussies have fought back to a good start Let's hope we can show them all!!!
I've missed you at the IGA.
ReplyDeleteCannot believe, only one more week and I will be back at the IGA..........
ReplyDeleteHi Viv,
ReplyDeleteSome of your Mexico trip follows the same Gringo tracil that I took 36 years ago! I also loved the pyramids- didn't even know South America had any until I arrived. Oaxaca was my favoutire Mexican town as well. I rememeber hearing a lot of Mariachi music in the square and I often will play Linda Ronstadt singing these songs and it brings back these memories.
So expect a Mexican dinner and a bit of Rhonda when you get back!
Enjoy your last few days.
Looking forward to catching up and also seeing Eva Rose on your return.
Love Jacinta
I have loved your blog and was thinking how you could turn into a money making venture. Perhaps you could produce travel blog/guides for mothers travelling with their daughters to a range of different countries??
ReplyDeleteLove J
Thanks Mum - we've loved travelling vicariously through your blog. Sounds like you've had a great time. See you at the airport tomorrow morning.
ReplyDeleteLove Fog, Netto and Eva.